With the exception of one our Memphis Bonsai Society members, I have yet to find a Texas Ebony in anyone else's possession in our climatic zone 7a (some classify our Memphis area as Zone 8). Why?? Well because the Texas Ebony grows naturally in zones 9 to 11. It can tolerate a light frost but because it is a at least a semi-tropical tree, it does not go fully dormant, growing some when temperatures permit.

Texas Ebony is in the Fabaceae Family, Sub Family Mimosaideae, with a Genus of Pithecellobium. This puts it in the broad family of Mimosa and the Brazilian Rain Tree. It bears a resemblance to the Black Olive Tree in terms of its foliage and branch growth.

Texas Ebony (Pithecolobium flexicaule) is typically an evergreen tree growing to about 15 to 35 feet tall with a rounded canopy which would be about 15 to 20 feet wide. It has short thorns interspersed amongst the branches and has has fragrant white to light yellow flowers at the branch ends. Mature trees put out black woody shells containing seeds which can be eaten. The dark shells have been used to make coffee after they are roasted. The bark is gray and very smooth. The leaves are small, dark green, bi-pinnate (compound) and are on 1 to 2 inch stems. Like the Brazilian Rain Tree, the leaves tend to curl-up in subdued light or when the weather gets cold. (a living thermometer?) The young branches zig and zag from node to node much like an Black Olive Tree giving the branches natural movement without any action on our part.

Why does it make a great bonsai? Well... because it is slow growing; has a nice, smooth, almost glossy gray bark providing great contrast with the dark green leaves; has small leaves for great proportion; has a natural zig zag branch movement from node to node, enjoys full sun; tolerates wiring well because of its slow growth (helps avoid scarring of branches when wired);does not need to be repotted or trimmed as frequently as some other bonsai trees; accepts various soil conditions; and pests and disease do not appear to be a problem. Rather than having to wire to shape, one can take advantage of the zig-zag growing pattern and use the “clip and grow” technique.

How much more can anyone ask for when wanting a quality bonsai plant? I have three very young Texas Ebony trees and am letting them grow as quickly as mother nature and fertilizer will permit. By the way, the Texas Ebony grows in areas where the soil is called hard-pan. That means that it will get by with little nitrogen but does enjoy potassium and phosphorus fertilization. Am looking forward to planting the three, after more growing and pruning, on a slab as a small off-center grove. Those are my present plans but plans are always subject to change and I have been known to change my mind; however, I do intend to take some cuttings for rooting when I prune the trees this spring and with any luck, I'll have more Texas Ebony plants in the future.

What is your favorite tree/plant for producing a fine bonsai specimen some day??

Editor: We received this follow-up correspondence from reader Shane Sklar, from Edna, TX:

Fred,

Good Morning! While surfing the web I ran across your article written in January 2008 about the Texas Ebony. I have some Texas Ebony seeds that I planted 3 weeks ago that I am hoping eventually come up but nothing thus far. I had tried to plant some of these trees 5 years ago with little luck as well. This year I brought the seeds to a boil and soaked them over night before planting. I am wondering if I might need to do some sort of scarification. Can you offer any suggestions on how to grow the trees from seeds? Thanks!

Shane Sklar
Edna, TX

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Shane:

I have never propagated Texas Ebony from seed. I have always done cuttings but below is a recommendation on how to go about it.
 
Propagation: Seeds in the wild are frequently infected by a small weevil.  However, viable seeds are easily germinated. Soak for 24 hours, then cut out a tiny piece of the outer shell with the tip end of a concave pruner or with a file. Soak again for 24 hours. Sow on the surface of a rooting medium. Prior to transplanting, remove the tap root. Because of the large tap root they are difficult to collect in the wild

Hope this helps. I have just started to propagate Japanese Larch from seeds. I did the 24 hour soak and the seeds are now in our refrigerator and will remain there for a month, after which I will plant. Stratification for your seeds isn't needed and it makes sense if you look to see where Texas Ebony are typically found(It is warm year around).

Hope this helps and good luck to you.

Fred